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AMBER LIQUID - THE DELIGHT OF THE RIVERINA

Australia’s Riverina district is known to quite a few but is rarely on the usual vinophile’s track. This is despite the district having a tradition of grape growing since the turn of the century.

Admittedly, the Riverina has suffered from a few disadvantages. It's position in far south western New South Wales involves a drive of about six to seven hours from Sydney. But a clever touring itinerary can take the visitor through three or four wine districts on the way to the Riverina through some of Australia’s finest rural production country; and this means good eating. Whilst the Riverina itself is interesting, the district also provides a good visiting point in any longer journey across the south eastern corner of Australia especially across to Victoria to the south and South Australia further afield.

Separately, the Riverina has suffered from a reputation as a bulk agribusiness producer of lower grade grape. The sort of material that heads towards the bottom end of the wine market.

The good news is a handful of individual winemakers and individual wine styles are quickly making an exciting mark whilst the overall district continues to prosper servicing the larger bulk wine market. A combination of vine maturity, improved viticulture and the inherent strength of the districts vignerons, certainly warrants a visit.

Pictured opposite are Robert Fiumara (Lillypilly Estate) and old vines on Melange Wines vineyards.

Dessert wines have especially carried the Riverina district into prominence. De Bortoli’s renowned ‘Noble One’ botryitised semillon has stood above the pack for fifteen years. A few of the other big producers also present exciting, succulent botryitis influenced dessert wines all of which are available in the mainstream liquor outlets. But for the traveler who finds wine touring alluring, it’s discovering special gems of the small producer for the first time that provides great excitement.

Robert Fiumara of Lillipilly Estate is one such gem. From the dry flat lands near the pretty town of Leeton, Robert extracts some of the most flavoursome botrytis affected fruit in Australia. Hot days and cool nights provide the ideal conditions that stimulate the special botrytis mould growth. The finest of judgement is required to determine when the mould is at its optimum with picking often not taking place until May or June when the mould is in full cry. Whilst Semillon is the preferred varietal of the district, Robert has experimented with Riesling and Muscat with stunning results, and now he has botrytis-affected shiraz under fermentation for release in twelve months.

Only one other thing matches the variety, flavour and quality of Lillipilly’s wines; that is Robert’s rich hospitality and interest in his guests and their story. He happily shares his time and it is no small story to hear how Californian merchants are raving about his efforts and buying up Lillipilly produce. The secret for the cellar door visitor is Robert Fiumara’s extraordinary prices. After all, he makes his wine for the enjoyment of sharing and the making of a modest living, not too much more to it really, and the simple commitment shows.

Visit the Riverina and enjoy a special district with a unique wine story. Good history and good food with the strong influence of Italy and whatever you do, don’t miss Lillipilly Estate.

September 2003

Photos by David Boden